This month at BACO, we travel to the heart of Rioja Oriental to discover a winery where wine, family, and art coexist in a unique way: Bodegas Ontañón.
With roots dating back several generations of winemakers in the small Riojan village of Quel, the Pérez Cuevas family has built a project deeply connected to the land, the landscape of the Sierra de Yerga, and a very personal way of understanding wine. What began as a family and artisanal production eventually became one of Rioja's most unique wineries.
Ontañón is not just a winery. It is also the Temple of Wine, a space where barrels coexist with monumental sculptures, classical mythology, and contemporary art, creating a unique sensory experience for visitors.
We spoke with the Pérez Cuevas family to learn more about their history, their connection to Rioja Oriental, and the future of a project that combines tradition, territory, and creativity.
Ontañón is a deeply family-oriented winery. How did the project begin, and what role does the family play in its daily operations?
Ontañón Familia is a deeply family-oriented project, driven by the Pérez Cuevas family, with roots tracing back several generations in the world of wine in La Rioja. Its origin lies in the small Riojan village of Quel (in Rioja Oriental), where the Pérez Cuevas family has been linked to the land and vineyards for over 80 years. For decades, they produced wine artisanally in their family winery, mainly for their own consumption or bulk sale to other wineries.
The formal birth of Bodegas Ontañón as a commercial and bottling project occurred in the mid-1980s, led by Gabriel Pérez, a pioneering winemaker and vigneron in the area, and his wife Mari Luz Cuevas. They took the reins in the 1970s-80s, deciding to produce and market their own wines, at a time when there were only a few bottling wineries in all of Rioja Oriental. Ontañón thus emerged as the family's original and emblematic project, initially focused on the classic essence of Rioja, with its own vineyards around Quel and the foothills of the Sierra de Yerga.
Over time, the family has expanded its vision: Ontañón has become an iconic winery in Logroño (with its Temple of Wine, a unique space that combines art, with works dedicated to Classical Mythology by Riojan artist Miguel Ángel Sainz, and wine tourism), and has given rise to other projects such as Queirón (a return to the origins in Quel, led by Gabriel and materialized from 2011) and Rippa Dorii (in Ribera del Duero and Rueda), forming the current winemaking company Ontañón Familia.
In daily operations, the family remains the heart of the company. The four children of Gabriel and Mari Luz—Raquel, Leticia, Rubén, and María (fourth generation)—actively manage the different areas: Raquel is the winery director and, since June 2025, president of the Regulatory Council of the DOCa Rioja (the first woman in history to hold this position); Leticia is responsible for viticulture; Rubén directs enology; and María, the youngest, handles functions such as human resources and internal management. It is a model where the family not only owns but also works side-by-side in the vineyard, winery, production, sales, and wine tourism. This direct involvement ensures that the project maintains its personal, passionate, and traditional Riojan character while innovating and growing.
Your winery is almost a museum, with a strong connection between wine and art. Where does this union come from, and what does it bring to the visitor and the wine?
The union between wine and art at Bodegas Ontañón arises directly from the vision and passion of Gabriel, founder alongside his wife Mari Luz, and from the deep respect the Pérez Cuevas family feels for wine as something much more than a beverage: they consider it a living work of art, a gift from the earth and history that deserves to be honored and elevated to the sublime.
The artistic materialization came through a great friendship: that of Gabriel himself with the Riojan artist Miguel Ángel Sainz, who created the permanent works that define the space. We are talking about enormous sculptures (such as the emblematic centaur, symbol of the winery, or the figures of Oinopion and Pholos), paintings, stained glass, and elements that transform the aging rooms (with thousands of barrels) into a living museum. The art is not merely decorative: it guards and accompanies the wine's aging process, as if the gods were watching over its perfection.
It transforms the visit into a sensory, emotional, and almost spiritual experience, very different from a conventional tasting. The tour through the Temple of Wine invites visitors to discover the "art of drinking wine," combining visual beauty with the mythological narrative of wine (its divine origin, its civilizing power) and generating a deeper and more memorable connection. Many visitors describe it as unforgettable: you leave impacted not only by the taste of the wine but also by the magical atmosphere, the monumental sculptures, and the idea that wine is culture, history, and living art.
You emphasize the identity of Rioja Oriental. What characterizes this area, and how is it reflected in your wines?
The identity of Rioja Oriental is one of the fundamental pillars of Ontañón Familia, especially since our deepest roots are in this subzone, in the village of Quel and the foothills of the Sierra de Yerga. We work extensively in this area because it represents our essence: an authentic territory, less known than other parts of Rioja, but with enormous potential for wines with character, depth, and a distinct Mediterranean personality.
The vineyards of Quel (such as those in secluded plots in Yerga, often at altitudes between 600-800 m) are not isolated monocultures: they are part of a living fabric integrated into a mountainous and rugged landscape. We are surrounded by Mediterranean scrubland (holm oaks, kermes oaks, rosemary, thyme, gorse, wild lavender, and other aromatic plants that perfume the air and attract pollinators), scattered trees and crops (centuries-old olive trees, almond trees, cherry trees, plum trees), wild fauna (beneficial insects, birds, small mammals, and reptiles), and living soils (clay-iron, stony, with excellent drainage and low fertility). Spontaneous ground cover promotes mycorrhizal fungi, bacteria, and earthworms, improving soil structure without excessive chemical inputs. As our technical director Leticia Pérez Cuevas says, the soil and its biodiversity are the base of the life pyramid in the vineyard: the vineyards become another element of the ecosystem.
The result is a unique aromatic and sensory footprint, directly influenced by biodiversity:
- Intense balsamic aromas: notes of scrubland (thyme, rosemary, dried herbs), carried by the wind from the mountains.
- Wild and ripe red fruit: raspberry, wild strawberry, blackberry, cherry, with touches of fig or plum, complexified by cross-pollination and the cool high-altitude microclimate.
- Minerality and salinity: graphite, wet stone, saline touches that evoke stony soils and limestone mountains.
- Subtle spices: white pepper, light cinnamon, and a delicate floral background (violets or wild flowers), which François Chartier calls the "missing link" of terroir: biodiversity contributes volatile compounds that enrich the aromatic identity of the grape.
If someone tries Ontañón for the first time, what wine would you recommend to understand your essence? And why?
If someone tries Ontañón for the first time, we would recommend starting with Ontañón Crianza. It is our most emblematic wine and the one that best encapsulates the essence of the Pérez Cuevas family and the entire project.
Why this one precisely?
It is the "essential wine" of the house: it represents the fundamental, the identity of Rioja Oriental (our homeland in Quel and the Sierra de Yerga), the classic Riojan tradition reinterpreted with family care, and the perfect balance between fruit, structure, and elegance. It is not the most expensive or the most extreme, but it is the one that condenses our history, philosophy, and style in every bottle. It reflects our roots and evolution: it is born from a strategic coupage of Tempranillo (from high-altitude vineyards, which provide freshness, acidity, and fine tannins) and Garnacha (from old vines on slopes, which gives Mediterranean warmth, ripe fruit, and the typical expressiveness of Rioja Oriental). It is a tribute to the varietal diversity of our subzone, the biodiversity of the surroundings, and the tradition of Riojan aging (12-14 months in barrels, to polish without obscuring the fruit).
It is accessible and revealing for a first contact: on the nose, it displays ripe black and red fruit (blackberry, cherry, plum), subtle floral touches, sweet spices, balsamic notes, and a mineral background that evokes the stones of Yerga. On the palate, it is balanced, silky, with velvety tannins, lively acidity, and a length that invites further drinking. It is gastronomic and versatile (meats, cured meats, rice dishes, cheeses), and many describe it as "Rioja in its purest state, but with the soul of Rioja Oriental": warm but fresh, traditional but vibrant.
It connects with the rest of the family: once you taste it, you understand why Ontañón is the original project (since 1985), the one that opened the door to Queirón, the Temple of Wine and art, and Rippa Dorii. It is the perfect entry point: if you fall in love with it, you will want to explore deeper (Antología, LaGarnacha, Mi Lugar...).
What projects or new developments do you have underway for the future? How will Ontañón evolve in the coming years?
At Ontañón Familia, the future is built on deep roots but with an eye always forward, faithful to our family essence: Riojan tradition, passion for the territory, unadorned innovation, and a commitment to sustainability and the visitor experience.
Wine Tourism and the Temple of Wine: We continue to strengthen the Temple of Wine as a cultural and sensory epicenter. We have expanded experiences such as the "Initiation Journey to Wine" (an immersive tasting that combines mythology, art, and the senses) and other thematic proposals. The La Sacristía Wine Bar is a daily meeting point for informal tastings of all the family's wines (Ontañón, Queirón, and Rippa Dorii), just minutes from the center of Logroño.
Vintages and Recent Wines: The 2025 vintage was challenging due to the climate (low production but exceptional quality), with wines of great aging potential: solid structure, round and elegant tannins, and remarkable freshness. We continue to work on these vintages and delve into limited collections from Queirón (centenary and high-altitude vineyards) and new additions to the Insólitos line.
Rippa Dorii and Expansion in Castile: The project in Ribera del Duero and Rueda advances with a focus on ancestral vineyards and pure expressions. Recent recognitions (such as 94 points for Geografías Salomón 2021) are driving special organic and single-plot editions.
Looking ahead, we are evolving towards a more integrated and global maturity: strengthening the identity of Rioja Oriental and Quel as "the secluded Rioja" (more single-vineyard wines, historic Garnacha, high-altitude Tempranillo, and limited collections that tell stories of plots); reinforcing our commitment to white wines; maintaining essential wines (like Ontañón Crianza) as a base, while innovating with Versos Sueltos, Insólitos, and experimental projects such as Ensayos Capitales.
After learning about Ontañón's history, it's clear that this is much more than just a winery. It's a family project where wine is understood as culture, landscape, and an expression of a territory.
From the vineyards of Quel and Sierra de Yerga, to the unique Temple of Wine in Logroño, Ontañón has managed to build its own identity within Rioja, championing the Mediterranean personality and biodiversity of Rioja Oriental.
🍷 You can discover their wines in our physical store or on our website.
🎧 And if you want to listen to the full conversation with the winery, don't miss the new episode of Momentos DiVinos, our podcast. (Available very soon)
See you at BACO, with a glass of Ontañón in hand.
