This month at BACO, we delve into the history of a winery that changed the rules of the game in Rioja: Contino.
A pioneer in the "château" concept in the region, Contino committed itself in the 1970s to producing wines exclusively from a specific estate: the Finca San Rafael, in Laserna (Rioja Alavesa).
Since then, it has built an identity based on respect for the vineyard, precise winemaking, and a timeless elegance that has made it a benchmark inside and outside Spain.
We spoke with their team to learn more about their origin, their style, and their vision for the future. Here is the full interview.
Contino was one of the first wineries in Rioja to embrace the "château" or single estate winery concept. How did that idea come about and what impact did it have at the time?
Contino was founded in 1973, primarily because the San Rafael estate, which surrounds the manor house that now houses the winery, produced exceptional quality grapes. Thus, breaking with tradition and daring to take a step that many others would later follow, Viñedos del Contino was born as a unique and proprietary vineyard project, starting with about 20 hectares and now reaching 62 hectares. Then, as now, it was the quality of the vineyard that prompted us to take the plunge.
The San Rafael estate is the heart of Contino. What makes this vineyard special and how does it influence your wines?
Indeed, all the wines in the Contino range come from this vineyard. Although the concept is that of a single vineyard, Contino is much more than that: the territory contains different soils and compositions that we have divided into different plots, up to nine, so, within the estate, we have a great diversity of soils which, together with the planted varieties: Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, Garnacha, among other minor ones, forms a true mosaic that provides a multitude of nuances to each of the wines. While Contino Reserva and Gran Reserva are the expression of the entire estate, from vineyards selected for their potential to produce age-worthy wines, the varietals show the interpretation of these terroirs separately, and Viña del Olivo shows the excellent singularity of that plot. Each one expresses all the diversity contained in Finca San Rafael, showing a multifaceted range whose main axis is the Mediterranean character of all the wines and the freshness provided by its characteristic mesoclimate, due to its privileged location next to the meander of the Ebro as it passes through Laserna.
Your wines combine classic elegance with depth and freshness. How would you define the Contino style today?
Obviously, classicism is part of Contino's DNA due to the history of the estate, but that definition should be qualified with a touch of modernity and, above all, the Mediterranean soul of the wines, their fleshiness and structure, which form a very particular style and is given by its location in the Rioja Alavesa region and next to the Ebro. Added to this is the continuous search for freshness, a constant challenge in times of climate change, but one that the care of the vineyards and a viticulture responsible with the environment successfully overcomes. Contino wines are, therefore, wines of Mediterranean character, structured, elegant, and imbued with a singular freshness.
Which wine would you recommend to someone approaching the winery for the first time? And which one best reflects your essence?
Without a doubt, the wine to start getting to know Contino would be one that comes from the entirety of our vineyards, and with that definition, we have two: Contino Reserva and Contino Gran Reserva. Both are the result of a meticulous selection of grapes from the entire estate and reflect, each with different nuances in terms of maturity and aging potential, the unique personality and the diversity of soils and varieties that we have. Both wines also reflect our essence, but we must undoubtedly mention Contino Graciano, for the avant-garde that it represented to produce a wine solely with this variety and the clonal diversity project we carry out in the vineyard, and Viña del Olivo, which we could define as a "single vineyard" squared, because it is the selection of grapes from an exceptional plot within an extraordinary estate.
What challenges or projects do you have on the horizon? How is Contino preparing for the future of wine in Rioja?
One of the challenges will be, and not just for Rioja but for any wine region in the world, to achieve perfect ripeness in a changing climate. To achieve this, at Contino we have been implementing measures for several years that contribute to strengthening the resilience of the vineyard and the vines and restoring the ecosystem of the estate, implanting actions of regenerative viticulture, such as the installation of bird perches, a pond for amphibians, or insect hotels, among others.
We also work to preserve the clonal diversity of the estate, and our grapes hold the first certificate granted to a Spanish winery for zero pesticide residue.
We prune respectfully, following the sap cycle of the plant, and in short, we constantly observe what happens in the field. For us, that is the guarantee that the vineyard will remain in optimal conditions for decades, and we ensure we leave an extraordinary viticultural legacy for future generations.
Talking to Contino is looking at the past with respect, at the present with pride, and at the future with excitement. Their wines tell a story of place, of time, and of people who work the land with honesty.
🍷 You can discover Contino wines in our physical store and also on our website.
🎧 And if you want to hear it firsthand, don't miss the Momentos DiVinos episode with the winery team. Coming soon to Spotify.
See you at BACO. Always with wine, always with soul.
